Fitting modular worktops is not as easy as 123, many experienced DIYers struggle with this and often end up making a mess or calling in specialists to finish the job. Although we would always recommend using a trained fabricator from the start, we have prepared a few tips for those who wish to fit themselves to help along the way.

Please remember this is just a guide and you should always refer to the manufacturers instructions before fitting any worktops.

1) Equipment For your safety we recommend;

• Mask, gloves and goggles 
• Hand router and cutters 
• Jig saw or hand held circular saw
• Random Orbital sander plus various grade discsF
• Fitting kit contents mitre jig and G clamps
• Some sort of supports (tressels)

2) Preparations, as with any job preparation is very important, make as much room as possible and as close to where you are fitting as you can, if your working in a closed area you need some ventilation as the adhesive fumes and dust created can be uncomfotable.

3)  Marking and sizing, this section applies for most kitchen worktops even wooden worktops. When taking worktop measurements allow extra for the first cut this can be done roughly with a hand held circular saw or a jig saw, the final trim needs to be done with a hand router remembering to always start cutting from the finished edge of the worktop.

When you have mid run joints (a join midway through the worktop) it is not advisable to join two sections at a hob or sink as this will weaken the area, also leave a gap of 50mm each side of an aga style cooker. When measuring allow extra for the mitre of one section into the other (ie male section and female section) your mitre jig will help you work this out. The cutting of these should be done in increments of 15mm at a time, taking it steady will be safer for you and help the cutter through the worktop (remember its cutting through 42mm of worktop. If you are doing a straight edge butt joint, set a straight edge up along the line you want to cut, remember to offset the guide to allow for the router gate.

4) Cutting - the next step for all work surfaces is to make the cut outs for the joining bolts and biscuits, first the joining bolts;

Most importantly they have to be in a accessible place so you can tighten them up when the worktops are in situ, refer to maker for the recommended amount of bolts per join. Using a "connecter bolt cut out jig" cut the amount of bolt holes needed in the two worktops, taking a little out at a time till the bolts are well inside the tops, (no deeper than 25mm),then with a biscuit cutter make slots between each bolt section but not running in to the bolt cut out. This slot needs to take a 20mm biscuit and needs to be around 20mm down from the surface.

So now your work surfaces are cut to size with worktop bolt and biscuit slots, next you need to do a dry fitt to make sure everything fits and there are no forseeable issues. Once everything lines up and all joints are nice and tight (no more than a 2mm gap where the worktops meet) its time to cut any sink or hob cut outs, when you do a hob cut out you must place the silver foil around the cut out overlapping some foil on the surface and some tucked under the bottom. If you have to re-edge anywhere its easer to do it before placing work tops in their final position first of all make sure you measure and cut the strip as required place 3 beads of the manufacture’s glue then lining bottom of the strip with the bottom of the work surface place the strip on ,strips of masking tape will hold this in place but 3 way clamps are much better. When the adhesive has dried, trim off any excess and round the top edge with a 3mm radius cutter in a router.

5) Sanding - This is best done when all joints are ready and the adhesive has dried completley, use a random orbital sander with a 180 grit paper go over the joins in a controled and even manner, DO NOT leave the sander in one place while running nor place more pressure on the areas with excess adhesive, this will casue "dents and craters" in the surface if the material. Move in a horizontal then vertical direction over a larger area than the joint, repeat this process with a 240 grit over a slightly larger area than the last. When you are happy with the joint and the excess glue has been sanded off you finish off the whole worktop with a finishing grit 320 so the surface is a uniform matt finish.

6) Tips -  Some tips to remember 1 the work area wants to be clear and ventilated 2 worktops are weaker at joint and cut outs 3 use correct glue and colour from the maker 4 if edging the end of a work surface it adds to the length 5 Don’t over sand in one place

7) If you don’t have the equipment or knowledge to do the job properly, get a trained fabricator...its much cheaper than replacing bodged workops.

8) These are basic instruction’s but you should always refer to the makers guide